Language

It must be 5 years now since the official international language of Rwanda was changed from French to English - for reasons I won't rehearse unless asked. I noticed immediately on my return that people who were adamant French speakers when I left 2 years ago are now trying a little English on me.

Public signs have mostly changed. Government schools had been instructed to abandon French, though a little is now being taught again. At Mwana N'Shuti students are prepared for an international clientele by learning English and Swahili

French continues to be a lingua franca, however. On Wednesday afternoon, after the morning planting, Antoine convened a group to talk about the new cookery course. The tutors for hairdressing, languages and vehicle mechanics were there, and Clement the entrepreneurship lecturer, and Aline who will teach the cookery course when enough equipment has been assembled. Antoine introduced the event and announced that as Theresa and I are bilingual - and all the Rwandans use French - the meeting would be in French. I said my French had some holes and I might need translation. I also had to explain that my hearing is deteriorating and I was struggling to hear soft voices over the noise from vehicles being repaired and their engines tested nearby.

Theresa had the main role. I haven't learnt much about her work in Friends Peace House or elsewhere but she is clearly more senior than most of the volunteers and is part way through her second year as Antoine's assistant and advisor, it seems. She was born in New Zealand, lives in Canada, and has worked in Vietnam, I think. She had been asked to give an overview of the work, repeating much of what I had already been told but that is the Rwandan way. Her notes were in English. Nobody else present was learning anything new.

Previously I would have smiled inwardly at the awkwardness and potential for misunderstanding but said nothing. Now I am on the way to being an honoured visitor so I spoke up. 'I would prefer this report to be given in English, if you don't mind.' And it was. Subsequent discussion flowed easily in all 3 languages, with translation as needed. This was not primarily a formal occasion or a staff meeting but more of a pitch for funding. It ended with Aline, Clement and Theresa agreeing to draft a grant application, which I could review in time for a second version to be with me when I leave for home.

Yesterday evening Antoine hosted a supper for the 8 volunteers - some new, some well established and one about to leave. Church leaders, lecturers and advisors, staff from Friends Peace House and Mwana N'Shuti, some spouses and volunteers numbered around 30. We sat at a long table, waiting for those coming from work or just keeping African time. Penned in on both sides, I started coughing. Waiters were hovering. I asked for water. 'Cold, madam?' The alternative is room temperature. 'Whatever is quickest. I am coughing badly.' 'You want coffee, madam?' 'No. JE TOUSSE.'