Putting on the final show 2

We don't have lunch by the lake, as I proposed. The petrol guage has jumped from half full to nearly empty so we drive the 12 or 13 miles to the nearest filling stations, in Ruhengeri. In the gap between ordering lunch and getting it - often a full hour - I make a list of desirable ingredients that may not be available in the local market at Rugarama. After eating we drive to the market - the one where Rachel and I shopped for the Batwa feasts last year. (Did I tell you about the little girl here who after running her fingers up and down my arm and looking under my sleeve, surreptitiously licked me to see if the white would come off?)

Antoine parks at the side of the market but doesn't want to leave the car unattended, so I'm on my own. First I visit the shops outside the market proper. I get a cheese at the fourth attempt, and a 2 kilo bag of white flour. (The supermarkets in Kigali have 500g bags which would be better, but never mind.) In a small wholesaler's I price a box of 12 cartons of fruit juice, needing at least 8, but it seems very expensive.

I put the early purchases in the car and set off for the interior of the market. My eye is caught by a sack of raw peanuts. I buy a kilo for 1000rwf (one pound sterling and no pound sign on this keyboard) then a quarter kilo of peanut flour for Rachel's sauce. By now I am being helped or hindered by 5 or 6 boys of probably around 12 -14 as well as the stall minder who is not much older. It takes a while to sort out the weights for 250g. I add 2 sachets of tomato puree at 200 each and a bottle of vinegar substitute for 600, though they will also be available in Rugarama. Back to the car nearby. Turning to the market again, I have two of the boys jostling at my side. 'No,' I say, 'I don't need help.' One leaves.

I buy a kilo of green beans for 500, 4 large lemons for 300 (probably too much), 4 pineapples for 1000 (ditto), a bunch of garlic for 300, a piece of ginger for 50 and two large wooden spoons, initially 300 each, for 500. I see no papaya and decide not to spend time searching out sesame seeds. The boy is always there, peering into the pocket of my handbag where I have put all the money allocated for lunch and making sure I close the zip promptly, wanting to carry my bags, pointing at other things I don't need today.

I could pay him to carry the bags, but it's not far to the car and I am too irritated to be generous. Antoine, observing the situation on my arrival, says it isn't good to give money directly to beggars. I am not convinced either way.

Charcoal cookers, crudely made of gritty clay, are on sale at 300 each. 'That is so cheap it would be wise to get some', is Antoine's opinion. We buy 4.

Here are the four clay charcoal burners and one of the more expensive kind

Then we drive round to the juice wholesaler, since 12 cartons from her cost less than 8 elsewhere. To get me my change she sends one minion to change a 2000 note into two of 1000 and another to break a 100f coin into 50, two 20s and a 10. We wait at least 5 minutes to complete the transaction, then we can drive off.

Too late I realise that, distracted by my 'helper', I forgot to go back for some good looking cauliflowers. I hope they may also be found locally in the morning.